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I have included a reference photo of both of those for you
Lining at hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
It closes with hooks at the top of the neck line
/ (6-7) Kristen McMenamy for Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Ready to Wear Advance
The top layer is cut on the bias cut and is a silk chiffon
Incredible 1980s Mary McFadden Couture Pastel Teal Green Pleated Dress w Hand Beading z-archive-1990s I have included a referenceMary McFadden patented her Fortuny inspired pleating technique just a couple of years after launching her label in 1973. This is from her higher end couture line that had a more limited production and was sold at higher end shops, Bergdorf's in the case of this dress. Mary was known to say frequently that there was no greater beauty than pleated cloth on the human body and she said when she developed her 'marii' fabric that her aim was to have it